@OOM,
-I really liked to take long exposure photos with a manual film camera, after digital cameras came, I got a little discouraged, because the ones that have the feature to keep the shutter open indefinitely, are very expensive and the cheapest, have a limited time to keep the camera shutter open... This photo is about 20 years old, it was taken looking southwest, lasting about 3~4 hours or more,and also is pic of pic.., you need to have a black cloth to cover when clouds come and without shaking the tripod, and when you close the shutter, you also need a black cloth before,... this one was a little whitish, because I gave it a, and some cloud must have passed, this is the bad part of smoking weed and drinking wine alone in the middle of the woods, when you are doing something that needs constant attention...
...I have no way to scan it, and it was easy on my faceb... but just to say that I liked this type of long exposure photography...
The trick with those cameras is to use an external device that allows you to keep the shutter open as long as you want. For mine, I have an external "handle" (quite cheap) that allows control of the shutter in several neat ways not provided by the camera.
What I did find out, after making a fairly OK star trails pic is that the preferred method is to actually open the shutter for some medium amount of time but do it many times and then overlay the pictures with software. This helps keeps the noise down and avoids over-exposing the static parts of your picture.
Sometimes it's a PITA to get the right one. For example, all my DSLR cameras i ever owned had to have the "bulk" shutter mode, which means 1st press = open, 2nd press = close. This made the remote control work, as it also enabled software to work with them. However, one mirrorless camera (one of the first EOS-M) lacked this mode (until it was updated later by firmware) so it was useless for long exposure photography for some time.
The noise is actually hard to fight when you aren't dithering, but it cancels out fine if you have some dozens of photos. The problem with the DSLRs is that the sensor heats up over time, which is changin the noise pattern and intesity. This is why astro cameras are cooled to a fixed temperature (i like -10, which is sufficient and doesn't cause too many problems with dew), this way you get a nice, even, black background over 100+ images.
The Pleiades stack (134x60s) is currently integrating, which is the last phase of stacking, after finishing all optimization and alignment operations.
26MP raw 16bit images are huuuge, a lot of numbers to crunch.